Primochill LRT Tubing Issue

[Solara2xb]

Hey All,

As most already know I recently completed my Case Lab TH10 Build.
Well I wasn't really happy with my Koolance Res so I decided to change it out and use a External mounted pump mount and stand alone Res. During this process I drained the loop and pulled my Res out and had to re-route some tubing. In the process I was shock to find what I did.

I came across this white film inside my tubing and after some research I found it to be Plasticizer in my tubing. Now this loop as been only running for MAYBE 3 weeks total. The fuild I used was NEW and everything was flushed before I installed into my rig with distilled water. I came across this thread on overclock.net

Plasticizer Problems / Discussion / Gallery and found that it was a common problem with Primochill Tubing. Now I am really at aw. Now I am afraid.. So in the next coming weeks I am now going to have to tear down my TH10 Rig so I can change out the tubing. Also I will now need to take my water blocks off and make sure I give them a good cleaning. Rads also... Man what a PAIN in the a$$. Just a heads up for those using this tubing. I might have gotten a bad batch.

I have used this tubing in my 700D before and never encountered this problem. So based on what I have read its a hit or miss depending on batch you buy.

Here some pics of how my tubing looks like when I cut it in half.


By solara2xb at 2012-05-26

By solara2xb at 2012-05-26


Your thoughts??

[vinman]

Wow that's horrible thanks for the heads up wont be buying any of that brand did it show up in the reservoir?
what additive did you run if any with the water?

[realneil]

May not be the tubing, but rather the result of dissimilar metals within the loop.
The gunk may just be SETTLING in the tubing.

Metals react with one another within a loop and some are not compatible together.

[Doctor_Death]

Hey Kenny, does this stuff come off on your finger if you touch it ? Do you have any unused tubing left over that you could cut a section from to experiment with ? From what I've read about it, it only builds up on the tubing, everyone said their blocks are clean and the coolant in the res is clear.

[Deton]

Kenny; you said you use this type of tube before and plasticize didn't happen. The tubing break down is a common issue in most type of tubes when they contact with the coolant. Some will break down faster (days) and some will take longer (months). There are tube design with anti-chemical reaction, these tubes handle the break-down better.

I did a XSPC tubing review XSPC Fittings, Tubing, RadStand Roundup and it has a mini info on the plasticize.

You can clean the tube of with a spiral brush, something similar to the brush for using clean gun barrel. I believe you shooting guns. My advise don't re-use the brush for cleaning the gun after work though.

[Solara2xb]

May not be the tubing, but rather the result of dissimilar metals within the loop.
The gunk may just be SETTLING in the tubing.

Metals react with one another within a loop and some are not compatible together.

From what I have read its the tubing. The metals I have area all the same. Most of it being Copper and 2 blocks that have nickel plating. But I am using Coolant that has anti-B. so it shouldn't be a problem.

Hey Kenny, does this stuff come off on your finger if you touch it ? Do you have any unused tubing left over that you could cut a section from to experiment with ? From what I've read about it, it only builds up on the tubing, everyone said their blocks are clean and the coolant in the res is clear.

The stuff does come off when I use a razor blade to scrape it.. But it but not really by finger. I do have have unused tube left. ALLOT of it.. I had bought 20 ft of it and only used 10-11 ft. The build up is ONLY in the tubes as far as I know. I haven't taken my blocks out yet to inspect. My Res was Clear and the fuild came out as clear as it went in.. Thats why I didn't think anything when I drained the loop unitl I went to cut the tubing to shorten 1 run. My block should be ok. But I wont know until I pull them off. I am going to start with my CPU block. If that one is clean that I know my blocks should be ok.

Kenny; you said you use this type of tube before and plasticize didn't happen. The tubing break down is a common issue in most type of tubes when they contact with the coolant. Some will break down faster (days) and some will take longer (months). There are tube design with anti-chemical reaction, these tubes handle the break-down better.

I did a XSPC tubing review XSPC Fittings, Tubing, RadStand Roundup and it has a mini info on the plasticize.

You can clean the tube of with a spiral brush, something similar to the brush for using clean gun barrel. I believe you shooting guns. My advise don't re-use the brush for cleaning the gun after work though.

The weird thing is I used the same brand tubing but in red on my 700D build. I had to break down the rig to RMA a MB and during that time I did a good cleaning to the system. The tube was a good as the day I bought it and just as red and clear on the inside. I used the SAME coolant brand as I did on my TH10 (which is Primochill ICE in Clear). I reused of the tubing on my 700D when I put it back together. Only replaced the tubing I had to replace that looked and felt brittle and refilled the loop with brand new primochill coolant. Now I am curious if it may be the coolant. I may drain my 700d loop to see if the tubing has any issues. But from what I can tell. My Res is still CLEAR and no build up in res. The tubing look just as good also..

I noticed after so more reading last night that other exp. less Plastizer with Tygon tubing. I went to look at the my wifes computer last night since I used Tygon R3603 1/2" ID tubing in clear to see if it may have the same issue. But I am happy to report that the tubing is just a clear as the day I installed it... So I am wondering if the Tygon R3603 tubing is more tolerant to the plastizer.

I can use the Gun barrel cleaner, But don't know how safe that it.. when I used a razor to scrape it looks like a gunk like substance. I don't want to run a wire brush through my tubing and cause gunk build up in my loop. Plus the barrel cleans I have are either LONG 24" or Short 8" and not flexible.. They are on a metal straight rod..

I may have to do a little experiment on this since I have tubing left over from Primo chill and tygon.

[Doctor_Death]

You might want to use one of the 36" long flexible brushes that they sell for cleaning lint out of dryers, you would be able to clean lager lengths of tubing with this type of brush.

[Solara2xb]

Wow that's horrible thanks for the heads up wont be buying any of that brand did it show up in the reservoir?
what additive did you run if any with the water?

The Coolant and res was a clear as ever.. just the tubing..
I used re mixed coolante by Primochill. Primochill Ice in clear

[killjoyjim]

Y not just get new tubing.

[Solara2xb]

Y not just get new tubing.

Thats what I am going to do.. But my Primochill tubing is only 3 weeks old. Its just odd to have this kind of break down that fast. Never exp. it before with other tubing. Even the same brand but in a diff color.
If I had to break down and buy new tubing every 3 weeks due to a issue that can cause build up it would be a pain in the A$$.

Just wanted to warn others in case they plan on using this type of tubing.
My next set of tubing is going to be Tygon R3603 in clear. Not as nice as the blue but I don't want to have to chage tubing that often.

[Doctor_Death]

I have some Primochill tubing here, but it's solid white not clear and I haven't used it yet.

[killjoyjim]

It sounds like going with water cooling is a lot of trouble. I know you can OC with water better. But is it worth all the bullsnit? I mean I would like to do water with my rig. It just sound's like it's not worth the trouble.

[Solara2xb]

It sounds like going with water cooling is a lot of trouble. I know you can OC with water better. But is it worth all the bullsnit? I mean I would like to do water with my rig. It just sound's like it's not worth the trouble.

Its not that its allot of trouble. Sometimes just need to find the right materials.. Trial and error...
But once you get it all set-up the way you want it will be like that for a LONG time without issues.

[vinman]

I have never had any of these issues I really think its a chemical reaction with the coolant and that hose
I have been using just straight distilled water with 3 drops of PT nuke added and not experienced anything like this.
Im running thin walled black tubing 1/2" ID 3/4 OD I cut and reused some of it when I added the second rad and GPU block and it was clean as the day I installed it

[Solara2xb]

I have never had any of these issues I really think its a chemical reaction with the coolant and that hose
I have been using just straight distilled water with 3 drops of PT nuke added and not experienced anything like this.
Im running thin walled black tubing 1/2" ID 3/4 OD I cut and reused some of it when I added the second rad and GPU block and it was clean as the day I installed it

I am thinking the same thing as well.
This next time around after I change out the tubing I am going to use dis-stilled water and Pt Nuke... but before I do I am going to put some spare tubing I have both Primochill and Tygon and test in both coolants and see if it makes diff.

[vinman]

I was going to use the white but I went with the black for two reasons one was black against the white case I thought would look good
The other is keeps sunlight off the fluid which with PT nuke stops the growth of algae in your system and dyed coolant will break down over time discolor your hose and gunk up your blocks