How do I add a drain tube/plug to my loop

[SamCR3]

I'm going to install the 360 rad I have very soon. I want to add a drain tube with a plug for easy maintenance but I'm not sure what parts I need to order. I prefer to order from Frozen CPU if possible so please provide links to their site. Right now, just my cpu is in the loop. I'll add my two 7970's later when I save up for two water blocks and a better pump. Thanks for the help.

[xhollowpointx]

I use Koolance G1/4" Brass Inline Drain Valve Fitting (VLV-XTSPL - FrozenCPU.com with mine. Nice because you can install all the temp sensors and what not. A little pricey but just put it at the bottom of your loop and it is cake to drain the system. Cheers!

[Solara2xb]

you can also add T Block in your system somewhere and add a shut off valve by bitspower..

[SamCR3]

I'm trying to visualize how this would work in my loop. A little confused. Sorry for seeming so dumb.

[SamCR3]

I'm wanting to set up a drain line like Doomas did in this build, but I have no idea what parts I'll need. Doesn't need to be as fancy as his with the value and all. I will also use 1/2" barbs instead of compression fittings.



Doomas's build log for reference: Project - Red October (Hunt of Red October)

[Deton]

Sam; my consultation fee is $200 an hour.......but I'm at work now. I will get back to you when I'm home tonight.
In the mean time can you upload the picture of your system?

[PoLoMoTo]

How did you get the air out of the rad with it on top?

[SamCR3]

Sam; my consultation fee is $200 an hour.......but I'm at work now. I will get back to you when I'm home tonight.
In the mean time can you upload the picture of your system?

Sorry for the delayed response Tony. I've been away from my computer most of the day. Here's a pic of my current set up. Only thing that will change is I'm switching the 240 rad out for a 360 and will route the tubing more cleanly. Thanks in advance for helping me figure out how to add a drain tube to the loop.

[SamCR3]

How did you get the air out of the rad with it on top?

I just tilted the case from side to side and then left the system running for several days. The air came out on it's own after that.

[SamCR3]

Ok, I think I figured it out. I can just use this t-fitting and barded drain plug with some tubing to make a drain tube, right?

Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Red - FrozenCPU.com

Enzotech G1/4" Barb Stop Fitting w/ Cap - 1/2" ID - Matte Black (BNPH-ID1/2-G14) - FrozenCPU.com

Second issue. Will a 10mm fitting extender be tall enough to allow me to use a 90 degree fitting with push pull fans? I need enough clearance to hook my return tube into the rad and still clear the fan. Thanks

[Deton]

I see you have figured it out by yourself after all.

Here are couple ideals for you.

Pass through setup.
Just connect the drain tube to the shutoff valve whenever you doing the draining and remove you done. However, this setup is expensive and a little more work with the drilling the pass-through hole for the bullhead.


T-Line setup
I see you use XSPC dual bay pump then just connect the T fitting at the inlet side. I believe it is lower than the outlet port.
The 5-way brass adapter will cost you more than the T- barb, because you have to purchase two extra barbs and 3 plug caps.

[SamCR3]

Thanks Tony. I'm going with the second set up because it seems most cost effective and is really pretty simple. Should make draining my loop a lot easier.

Now my second question is how tall of an extender do I need so I can use a 90 degree fitting on the rear back port of my rad to run the return line along the top of my mother board tray and back to the res (the t line drain will be on this line as well near the res). I have a 90 degree fitting but it won't clear my fans. I've found 10mm, 20mm, and 31.5mm extenders but they all seem like they will interfere with my 8 pin power supply plug in the upper corner of my mother board.

The goal here is to get rid of the long dangling tube I presently have running from my outlet port to my rad. New set up will go res/pump - waterblock - rad - res/pump with no tubes crossing (I hope).

[TeeBlack]

this is why im not ready for a custom loop. trying drain and clean the thing. im too lazy right now.

[SamCR3]

this is why im not ready for a custom loop. trying drain and clean the thing. im too lazy right now.

You only have to once every 6 months or so.

[xhollowpointx]

Ya I have mine setup Res outlet --> Rad inlet -> Cpu -> GPU -> 5 way with the smaller cap facing down near bottom of case -> back to res. Makes draining a breeze and you only need two fittings as it comes with 3 plug/stops. It's all preference really, whichever is easiest for you.

[Deton]

Now my second question is how tall of an extender do I need so I can use a 90 degree fitting on the rear back port of my rad to run the return line along the top of my mother board tray and back to the res (the t line drain will be on this line as well near the res). I have a 90 degree fitting but it won't clear my fans. I've found 10mm, 20mm, and 31.5mm extenders but they all seem like they will interfere with my 8 pin power supply plug in the upper corner of my mother board.

The goal here is to get rid of the long dangling tube I presently have running from my outlet port to my rad. New set up will go res/pump - waterblock - rad - res/pump with no tubes crossing (I hope).

why don't you measure the distance from the 8pin plug to the fan? If you use the fitting extender then I would go with the 20mm one and plus the 90° elbow fitting, all this will extended enough to pass the fan. Because the standard fan is 25mm thick. Now you can run your tubing in straight line along below the fans by using this cable clip

You can get this clip from HomeDepot as well.