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Thread: LOOK Whats Stuck in my Water BLock!!!

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    Default LOOK Whats Stuck in my Water BLock!!!

    Okay so i just returned from my work commitments and just completed my watercooling built (well almost just need to fill it up)

    So i decided to swap my Swiftech H20-220 Compact kit's Socket Mounting bracket and replace it with the AMD's AM2 bracket...My next upcoming built (2nd system)

    Becos i had to dismantle the entire compact watercooling assembly to swap out the LGA775 Bracket for the AM2 bracket i had to remove the CPU waterblock and when i removed it guess what i found!!!

    All these Crap getting caught in the H20-220 compact's Pin Matrix !@#!#@

    I had to slowly pick, pry and removed them bit by bit and guess this was what is impeding the recent poor performance of unit!!!

    Its actually huge chunks of Dust!!! i mean how will could these ever get into someone's watercooling unit beats me ?

    The reason why i didnt start pouring liquid into my new watercooling unit is becos of this problem...i do not want the same stuff getting caught in my Swiftech GTZ and MCP655 pump. I was really lucky i decided to swap my H20-220's bracket first before pouring fresh liquid into my new loop

    Can someone shed some light ? :confused:





    Last edited by bullydog; 07-10-2008 at 07:33.

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    LOL this looks really messy, but AFAIK the WC is quite cloesd loop when you assemble it and run the fluid so those things must have been stuck somwhere before you even assembled it ( maybe during the shipping or amnufacturing...?). Now this may give teach us a lesson to blow everything through before assembly

    " There are some things Man should not know, for rest is Google"
    " Never argue with an idiot, he'll drag you to his level and beat you with experience"




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    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post
    LOL this looks really messy, but AFAIK the WC is quite cloesd loop when you assemble it and run the fluid so those things must have been stuck somwhere before you even assembled it ( maybe during the shipping or amnufacturing...?). Now this may give teach us a lesson to blow everything through before assembly
    yeah makes sense...this is indeed a close loop and everything is pre-assembled from Swiftech...so i'm really thinking its the manufacturing process ... i remember when i opened the box there were really lots of those fiber glass like fine type particles around the entire box...

    This could really be a lesson for ppl to learnt

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    don't you know you need to do a pre clean the rad and block first before you install them?
    the purpose of pre-cleaning is to remove all residue left over from the manufacture. Use distilled water to flush the radiator and use tootbrush to brush off the block residue, and distilled water to rinse it off.

    Eventually, you will have a little build up like that but that a lot for a short period of time you own that kit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Deton View Post
    don't you know you need to to a pre clean the rad and block first before you install them?
    the purpose of pre-cleaning is to remove all residue left over from the manufacture. Use distilled water to plush the radiator and use tootbrush to brush off the block residue, and distilled water to rinse it off.

    Eventually, you will have a little build up like that but that a lot for a short period of time you own that kit.
    Oh no! i did not even think of this deton...but now that i have put my watercooling loop together...
    okay so i need to dismantle the loop and do some pre-cleaning...argh!!!

    How did u clean the GTZ? did u remove the 4 screws on the top of the GTZ cleaned the inside of it with toothbrush and distilled water?

    on another note...is it better to use the TIM that Swiftech provided or Artic Silver ?

    Thanks a lot btw!
    Last edited by bullydog; 07-10-2008 at 11:12.

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    Always go aftermarket TIM.

    Good learning lesson the rad, flush, etc. Now you know!!

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    What kind of coolant did you use? if this was something that you had to mix, what did you use for water ?
    Even when a car or truck Rad is replaced with a brand new one, they always flush it for at least 5-10 mins.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doctor_Death View Post
    What kind of coolant did you use? if this was something that you had to mix, what did you use for water ?
    Even when a car or truck Rad is replaced with a brand new one, they always flush it for at least 5-10 mins.
    I flush my rad's with 50% isopropyl 50% water and shake it around then pour it out haha. I use the alchohol cause it does a better job than water if there is some kind of grease or glue that needs to be removed incase it breaks off later and clogs something. it doesnt hurt the strength of a radiator because they are welded closed not glued closed :P

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doctor_Death View Post
    What kind of coolant did you use? if this was something that you had to mix, what did you use for water ?
    Even when a car or truck Rad is replaced with a brand new one, they always flush it for at least 5-10 mins.
    I used a bottle of Swiftech HydrX with a bottle of pure distilled water...total mixture about 1 liter

    Can someone advise how do i properly flush my Rad and GTZ ???

    Thanks in advance
    Last edited by bullydog; 07-10-2008 at 22:12.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bullydog View Post
    I used a bottle of Swiftech HydrX with a bottle of pure distilled water...total mixture about 1 liter

    Can someone advise how do i properly flush my Rad and GTZ ???

    Thanks in advance
    I guess you didn't read my water cooling maintenance guidehttp://forums.pureoverclock.com/showthread.php?t=4471
    take a look you may find an idea how to flush the rad.

    BTW, I just made it a sticky so no one else going to miss it.

  11. The following user thanks Deton For this above post:

    bullydog (08-10-2008)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Deton View Post
    I guess you didn't read my water cooling maintenance guidehttp://forums.pureoverclock.com/showthread.php?t=4471
    take a look you may find an idea how to flush the rad.

    BTW, I just made it a sticky so no one else going to miss it.
    Thanks Deton, indeed i missed it...what a great Guide it was!

    How did you flush the GTZ ? did u dismantle it with alan keys ? or just pump distilled water thru it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bullydog View Post
    Thanks Deton, indeed i missed it...what a great Guide it was!

    How did you flush the GTZ ? did u dismantle it with alan keys ? or just pump distilled water thru it?
    you can open it up and use distilled water to rinse it off or use a soft toothbrush to brush it. But be carefull when you put the pieces back together, to make sure everything exactly where it was, especially the stepped square stainless steel frame. The position of two little steps have to be North and South and the little pum facing toward the copper based (face down). If you put it reversed (face up) toward the black top,this is WRONG.

    BTW, my block wasn't that dirty from the manufature.

    Anyway, if you pre-clean all the parts before you install them then you know your system is totally cleaned. It shouldn't have any particles or residue and if there any build up later on then you know it is cause by the coolant (poor quality or mixture).

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