PUREOC Water Cooling Gallery

[Geralt]

well, AFAIK generally difference between those fittings are that brabs are less restrictive coz they have larger throughput ( if i can call it so) but i dont think that difference is noticable. another difference is that comp fittings are more secure coz they are compressing the tube ( squeezing it onto an inlet) and of course theres an aesthetic side of things as well coz you dont have to use clips/worm drives.

Barbs are more popular coz till recent compression fittings were only available for 8/6mm, 10/8mm and 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD tubing only but now there are all sorts of compression fittings including 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD tubing ( and thats the thickest available tubing). Of course there's also compability side of things where ie. some chipset or MOSFET blocks have the intles to close to each other and that doesnt allow you to put compression fittings on them ( they are too thick)

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Yeah only pro version of everest shows you all those temps.

[Deton]

Bully,

You did a good job with the water block installation, no PCB warpping .

All my setup I always try to feed the cooled coolant to the CPU first then the less overheated components last.

Those two rad are capable to dissipate up to 700-800w of heat, my calculation of your overclock Q6600 & 4870x2 only around 400w+ of heat. Therefore you should have any problem using those two rads.
You should use fans for the top rad or you can sandwiched them to eliminate the extra fans and lesser tubing. If you choose to leave where it is then add some fans to it and turn it around, so the inlet/outlet ports will be facing toward the back of the case. This way will be using less tubing. You're only cooled two components, you shouldn't have more than 7' (18cm) of tubing.

Can you put the pump at the bottom of the case, beside PSU?

If you have Die&Tap tool, you can mod the pump and reservoir to accept threaded fittings. So you can attached the reservoir right on top of the pump or installed the reservoir above the pump, drill a hole to case divider floor to route the tube to the pump at the bottom of the case.

There are no performance different between compression vs bards, just look and better leak proof.

Here is a diagram of sandwiched rad setup with better tube routing, you may have to drill new tube passage holes for the back.

[Geralt]

Now this picture is taken from HES review website:http://translate.google.com/translat...-8&sl=de&tl=en



so as you can see the inner part in comp fittings has a lesser diameter than in barbs which technically should restrict the flow..... but does it really... i dont know

[Deton]

Now this picture is taken from HES review website:http://translate.google.com/translat...-8&sl=de&tl=en



so as you can see the inner part in comp fittings has a lesser diameter than in barbs which technically should restrict the flow..... but does it really... i dont know

The illustration is not accurate.

I do own both high flow 1/2" ID compression and bard fittings and I used macro caliper to meassure them and here are the results;

the measurement were taking right at middle of fitting body, not at the entrance point or at threaded end.
EK 1/2" highflow bard: 9.08mm ID
Koolance 1/2" Compression highflow: 9.99mm ID

Like I said, there are no performance hit between compression fitting or bard, if you use proper one. I'm sure there are some bad designs out there.

[bullydog]

Hi Deton and Geralt...thanks again for all your valuable inputs

I have to agree with turning the Radiator around so as to shorten the Hose as much as possible. but given the fact that no matter how i tighten the right angle BitsPower Barb it can only face the opposite direction hence thats how it looks, mounting it the other way around will force it to take a dramatic U-Turn causing a Kink in the tubes...any suggestions ?

About mounting the 2 rads together and sandwiching them ... it seems too heavy for the rad box...at the moment with 1 single rad i already see the back of the Rad tilting slightly mounting the 2nd Rad box will definitely bring the Rad box down after prolong usage??

I was actually considering buying a TJ-07 to put all those Rad into the Case but i am probably saving some $$ to buy core-i7 instead
well see how it goes...those Corei7 temps looks fearsome an overclocked 4ghz i7 on air might hit almost 90c

Over the next couple of weeks i should be doing some minor mods to my case to drill holes into the back of the case so that those tubes can pass thru properly instead of stuffing them thru the PCI Slots...

Deton will it be convenient if you can advise me those Watercooling Holes at the back of your Silverstone Case? what are the Dimensions? i need to buy some Drill bits to bore out that hole (thanks in advance)

Then i will revise my watercooling loop to swap the inlets around from the 4870x2 to the CPU
Thats the activities after New Year and Christmas

[bullydog]

I re-looked at Deton's drawing again...since it is too heavy to mount the 2nd Rad on my Rad box, how about if i retain my current 2 Rad configuration but follow the exact flow design that Deton proposed? Do u think it will be effective? only drawback i could think of the is length of tubes i need to connect the 1st and 2nd rads together

[Deton]

I re-looked at Deton's drawing again...since it is too heavy to mount the 2nd Rad on my Rad box, how about if i retain my current 2 Rad configuration but follow the exact flow design that Deton proposed? Do u think it will be effective? only drawback i could think of the is length of tubes i need to connect the 1st and 2nd rads together

you can leave where they are but just add 2 fans for the top rad, and if you choose to use it as passive rad then at least you should give it 4 legs (standoffs) to lift it off the case for better air flow.

.....but given the fact that no matter how i tighten the right angle BitsPower Barb it can only face the opposite direction hence thats how it looks, mounting it the other way around will force it to take a dramatic U-Turn causing a Kink in the tubes...any suggestions ?

you might have to buy the 90 degree rotary bards one, this will solve the problem.

About mounting the 2 rads together and sandwiching them ... it seems too heavy for the rad box...at the moment with 1 single rad i already see the back of the Rad tilting slightly mounting the 2nd Rad box will definitely bring the Rad box down after prolong usage??

if you think the rad box can't handle to hold two rads then you can put them on top of the case like you have right now. Build 8 standoffs screws to mount the rad off the case.

.....
I was actually considering buying a TJ-07 to put all those Rad into the Case but i am probably saving some $$ to buy core-i7 instead
well see how it goes...those Corei7 temps looks fearsome an overclocked 4ghz i7 on air might hit almost 90c

Over the next couple of weeks i should be doing some minor mods to my case to drill holes into the back of the case so that those tubes can pass thru properly instead of stuffing them thru the PCI Slots...

this is a best case for watercooling with less moding, yeah this case cost as a i7 920
Planning carefully with the watercooling for i7 because those chips run pretty hot.

.....
Deton will it be convenient if you can advise me those Watercooling Holes at the back of your Silverstone Case? what are the Dimensions? i need to buy some Drill bits to bore out that hole (thanks in advance)

Then i will revise my watercooling loop to swap the inlets around from the 4870x2 to the CPU
Thats the activities after New Year and Christmas

well, if you use 3/4" OD tubing then you should use at least 1" hole and don't forget to use rubber insert to protect hole sharp edges and also it needs to file it down after bored it. So you need to buy 1" hole bore bit for metal, this type of bit cut holes faster than standard drill bits.

[grumpydaddy]

Cheapish holesaws (UK)

http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A337704...esaws/Holesaws

You'll need the arbour and pilot drill to start and then a holesaw sized to suit. Be aware though that larger sizes need different size arbour (note item 10350).

for rubber insert google grommets or for large holes grommet strip (formed pvc on a roll which protects sharp metal edge) (if you need some grommet strip I use it at work (for thin metal) ..PM me)

If you drill a hole like this and it is too small the only good way to make it bigger is with a step drill or cone drill (sometimes called a cone cutter)

Edit: from same site ...other sizes elsewhere
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/45562/...l-Bit-Set-3-Pc
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/15976/...p-Drill-4-22mm

Hope this helps

[Deton]

yes, those are holesaw cutters I was talking about, you do need a pilot drill bit to go with it.

Bully, there's another solution is to build a waterkeg. This water keg will hold two rad/fans, reservoir, pump. You can put this water keg on top of your case or use it as a case stand (add some wheels to it). I'm sure this mod must cheaper than buying a new case.

[HESmelaugh]

I know I'm a bit late to join in here, but I just wanted to clarify about the illustrations above: They specifically show a 10 mm ID compression fitting vs. a 13 mm ID barb. The illustrations are from an article about tubing sizes and how they affect flow.
Depending on the model, compression fittings and barb for the same size tubing will mostly be the same, restriction wise.

[Deton]

I know I'm a bit late to join in here, but I just wanted to clarify about the illustrations above: They specifically show a 10 mm ID compression fitting vs. a 13 mm ID barb. The illustrations are from an article about tubing sizes and how they affect flow.
Depending on the model, compression fittings and barb for the same size tubing will mostly be the same, restriction wise.

Hey, better late than nothing!
I knew something wasn't right there. Geralt misses understood the comparisons.

[bullydog]

you can leave where they are but just add 2 fans for the top rad, and if you choose to use it as passive rad then at least you should give it 4 legs (standoffs) to lift it off the case for better air flow.

well, if you use 3/4" OD tubing then you should use at least 1" hole and don't forget to use rubber insert to protect hole sharp edges and also it needs to file it down after bored it. So you need to buy 1" hole bore bit for metal, this type of bit cut holes faster than standard drill bits.

Deton i've seen your sketch on yr Rad sandwich Recommendation and as mentioned i will retain my current configuration (1 Rad top and 1 Rad Rear) but your recommendation suggests that the cooled liquid passes thru the CPU first then from the exit outlet directly to my 4870x2. Do u think by the time my 4870x2 receives the water it is already very warm since it came from the GTZ?

But i like your recommendation though its simple and easy to setup and will shorten my tubes substantially. Thanks again for helping me

Oh by the way i have 2 fans blowing directly below the Rad here's a pic of my case with the modder who helped me cut the top panel...So it is running pretty cool no need the standoffs




Thanks you and grumpydaddy for the advise i will have seen the website...and i will have to go down my local stores to hunt for that 1" drill bit
Problem after that might be to get the proper rubber inserts from the hardware store...dont think they carry rubber inserts for PC Cases tho....i was thinking of buying some thin rubber hoses then slit them apart and line them around the holes

[Geralt]

Hey, better late than nothing!
I knew something wasn't right there. Geralt misses understood the comparisons.

it wasn't ME, its that google tranaslator..... or maybe not..... should've read more carefully

[Geralt]

Deton i've seen your sketch on yr Rad sandwich Recommendation and as mentioned i will retain my current configuration (1 Rad top and 1 Rad Rear) but your recommendation suggests that the cooled liquid passes thru the CPU first then from the exit outlet directly to my 4870x2. Do u think by the time my 4870x2 receives the water it is already very warm since it came from the GTZ?

well i dont see much impact on my 3870x2 with such setup TBH, it idles @40 and goes to around 45-50 under load (please consider Cr@ppy pump). But my furnace is bit colder than yours . Well if you are conserned with warm liqiud going to grfx you could set it up like

pump>>rad1>>cpu>>rad2>>grfx>>res

that will give you the most optimal cooling IMO

[Deton]

well i dont see much impact on my 3870x2 with such setup TBH, it idles @40 and goes to around 45-50 under load (please consider Cr@ppy pump). But my furnace is bit colder than yours . Well if you are conserned with warm liqiud going to grfx you could set it up like

pump>>rad1>>cpu>>rad2>>grfx>>res

that will give you the most optimal cooling IMO

I think his setup alreay like your suggestion, his problem right now is the tubing. They are all over the place.

Deton i've seen your sketch on yr Rad sandwich Recommendation and as mentioned i will retain my current configuration (1 Rad top and 1 Rad Rear) but your recommendation suggests that the cooled liquid passes thru the CPU first then from the exit outlet directly to my 4870x2. Do u think by the time my 4870x2 receives the water it is already very warm since it came from the GTZ?

it's probably 1 or 2 degrees hotter than the other setup (your) but this card designed to operating at high temp.

But i like your recommendation though its simple and easy to setup and will shorten my tubes substantially. Thanks again for helping me

Oh by the way i have 2 fans blowing directly below the Rad here's a pic of my case with the modder who helped me cut the top panel...So it is running pretty cool no need the standoffs


Thanks you and grumpydaddy for the advise i will have seen the website...and i will have to go down my local stores to hunt for that 1" drill bit
Problem after that might be to get the proper rubber inserts from the hardware store...dont think they carry rubber inserts for PC Cases tho....i was thinking of buying some thin rubber hoses then slit them apart and line them around the holes

before you purchase any holesaw bit, check if the store selling any rubber insert first. If you use 1" hole with insert then I don't think the tube is going to fit, it's might be to tight. Or you might have to use 1.5" holes but first to check the availabity of the rubber size.

I think, I have a solution to improve your tubing as to leave everything where they are. I will give you new sketches.

[Deton]

Bully, here are 5 steps that you can improve your current setup without spending ton of cash;

1. You need to drill 2 new holes for tubing and you might have to lift the rad off by using the two fans, if you don't want to do that then just make the holes bigger so you can feed the bards through the holes, or you can cut a rectangular shape big enough to fit two bards then use car door edges strip to protect the sharp edges. I'm sure you are easily find this material than a big circular rubber insert. If you have a hard time to find any rubber protector then just use a metal file to smooth out the edges, and if you cut the holes big enough for the tubes not to rub against it then you should be fine without the rubber.
2. Turn the radiator around so the bards can facing the case and use 90° fittings to eliminate long tubing. Now you can hide the tube between the case and radiator instead of extended far pass the rad.
3. You need to make a new passage hole for the pump inlet tubing, this mod will eliminate some long tubing, route the tube through PSU cable routing hole.
4. Put the pump at the bottom of HDD & PSU compartment
5. Use 3/4" cable clips to keep these 2 tubes tidy, the red & blue tubes will run along case top until they close to the blocks then drop them down, so they won't hanging over the place.

Hope this will give you some ideas.

P.S: you might find it is hard to bend the 3/4" tube at short and sharp bending though, in that case then just use 90° fitting. I know this will cost a lot if you use Bitspower fitting and if you don't care much about the look then you can use 1/2" copper elbow fittings for home plumbing, you do need some soldering though. I'm sure it won't cost you $10 per fitting.