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Thread: Help with new Liquid Cooling and OC

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    Default Help with new Liquid Cooling and OC

    Hi, I am new to liquid cooling. I just built myself the following rig: Asus P6T motherboard with i7 920 CPU, 6Gb DDR3 Patriot RAM, BFG GTX 280 OC 1Gb video card. I am water cooling the CPU with a Danger Den MC TDX water block. I am able to stable OC to 3.68Ghz with idle CPU temp of 42 - 46 and 72 - 75 with Torture test with Prime 95. Any more OC does not let me boot. CPU volt is 1.32.

    1) Will adding a Chipset waterblock help with the OC?
    2) Will adding a GPU waterblock help? - esp if I do not play any high end games. Am I just wasting money with GPU liquid cooling or will it help more stable OC. I am hoping to get beyond 4GHz.

    ANy help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    :confused:

  2. #2
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    Welcome to PureOC!

    Very nice setup you have there. A couple things to address:

    1. adding a GPU block in your loop will not help. In fact, it will make your temps worse because now the GPU has to be cooled as well, and it will dump more heat into your loop, adversely affecting your CPU temps as a result. So yes, it will be a waste of money as far as liquid cooling and temps go there.

    2. A chipset block will help, but not much really. Do you have any airflow going over the P6T heatsink? I have a P6T and it can get rather hot when overclocking. Just make sure you have some decent airflow and you should be fine. HOWEVER, you can add a chipset block and it will help with temps but not necessarily much on the overclocking.

    3. To get past 3.6Ghz you will probably have to increase your CPU voltage more than what you have. However, there's a chance that another setting is holding you from going higher on your overclock. OC'ing an i7 is more complicated than Core2, etc. There are many more settings to tweak, and it only takes one of them to be incorrect and your system will not boot. I've been meaning to post a quick Guide to OC'ing i7 (particularly on a P6T) but haven't had a chance yet, sorry. I can get to 3.8Ghz on air so you should be able to hit 4.0 on water I would imagine. Chances are there's a setting. It's not your temps because the CPU will not overheat in the time it takes to boot into Windows. It's crashing on boot into the OS because your OC is unstable. That means either your P6T needs more voltage or something is overtaxed. One thing I had to find out the hard way that was hold my OC back was a RAM setting, I can't remember off hand which one it was, but I had to manually change it, Auto did not work. Sorry, not at my workstation right now and can't check until later.

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    Hi - Thanks for your reply. If you could post about the RAM settings that would help me having to reinvent the wheel again . Also just as info - I have this setup in a Gigabyte 3D Aurora case with the Black Ice Extreme II Radiator installed outside on the back (took a little innovation)with 2 120mm UltaKaze fans installed inside the case blowing air out towards the radiator. The Ram and the Chipset have a Antec Spotcooling fan and the small additional fan (that the motherboard came with ) blowing air towards them.

    1) Maybe I need to switch the UltaKaze fans around to suck cooler air from outside through the radiator and into the case?
    2) I will try and reseat the CPU waterblock and reapply the Arctic Silver 5 paste.
    3) WIll try upping the CPU voltage.
    4) Even when the am able to reboot at BCLK of 190 - 200 the system crashes to BSD on Prime 5 torture test - any suggestions?

    Thanks

  4. #4
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    Wow, lots to cover LOL. I'll try to be brief:

    1. Sorry for asking here, but.......are your fans actually attached TO the rad, and not just blowing air AT it? And normally sucking in cool air is good. OR......put the fans at the rear of your external rad and have them suck air completely out the rear. Don't try to blow air into the rad, have the fans sucking the air out the back.

    2. Reseating is a good idea, worth a try.

    3. Increasing vCORE will help.

    4. Not surprising. However......if you get errors during Prime then your OC isn't quite stable and voltage bump up should fix it. But if you're getting a BSOD then either your CPU temps go too high and it's locking up or could be vDroop probs. Hmmmmm........

    I'm at my workstation now, just finishing a few benchmarks on a test system. Lemme reboot and get some pics of settings for you. Gimme a little while, I'll be back.......

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    Do yourself a favor and buy some Zalman STG-1 I found that it works better than AS5, but you have to apply it to both the heatsink and your processor. I agree with Sky, if you do not plan on overclocking your card , do not add it to the loop, you will only add more heat.

    Which ram are you using, the 1333 MHz, or the 1600MHz? , also what pump are youn using? You should also talk to Deton about this, he does most of our water cooling reviews, if he can he you out he will. Sky has the same motherboard and processor as you, and he has his at 4GHz on air., I'm sure he will help you figure something out to get you running stable.

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    Well I don't run it full load at 4.0GHz on air though, temps too high for my liking. I dial it back a bit for everyday use. But I have to install the new TEC/H2O setup on the bench, hopefully soon when I get some time, so I can crank it up.

    Ok, going to get P6T BIOS settings now........

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    Ok Spy, here are the most critical BIOS settings, these SHOULD get you to 3.8GHz no problem. These are my settings on air.

    QPI Link Data Rate was the setting I was thinking of. Manually set it. Also, set your DRAM frequency lower if necessary for now, just to make sure it's not a limiting factor.






    Last edited by Skyguy; 09-01-2009 at 21:33.

  8. The following user thanks Skyguy For this above post:

    spykids777 (09-01-2009)

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    Thanks Sky, I will try the settings later. Will let you know how it turns out.

    Spykids

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    Default

    The following are just add on to Skyguy comments.

    Quote Originally Posted by spykids777 View Post
    1) Maybe I need to switch the UltaKaze fans around to suck cooler air from outside through the radiator and into the case?
    well, I don't know how you installed your rad, with rad box or custom standoff? perhaps some pics.
    whatever you do, DON'T blow hot air back into the case this will affect the other cooling components; such as NB/SB and GPU. Set the fans push or pull whatever suite your setup to draw heat away from the case.

    2) I will try and reseat the CPU waterblock and reapply the Arctic Silver 5 paste.
    what is your individual core temp?
    according to the temps posted it's look normal for i7, 75c seem normal for overclocked i7 at load.
    I'm assume you're using 240mm rad, if you use a triple rad will improve a little bit.
    Ok, get back to the core temp, if you have more than 5c different between core then you have uneven mounted block.

    3) WIll try upping the CPU voltage.
    4) Even when the am able to reboot at BCLK of 190 - 200 the system crashes to BSD on Prime 5 torture test - any suggestions?
    I think Skyguy already covered this areas

    Thanks

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    Sky,
    I have not had time yet to try the settings. But in answer to your questions:
    1) The Radiator outside attached to the back of the case - the 2 Ulta Kaze 120mm fans are on the inside of the case blowing air from the inside of the case out to the back over the radiator. There is no RadBox.

    2) Which is the best program to measure temp:
    Using the Asus Probe software CPU is 41 idle and Motherboard is 43 idle. With Prime Stress the CPU is 72 - 75 and Motherboard in 60's.

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    Continuing my previous post:
    Using Real_Temp 2.7 the Cores are 32,32,34,34 idle and with Prime stress are 58,58,59,59. There is a 12 - 14 degree difference!!

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    Talking about the fans and which way they blow through the rad my first comment is about sealing any gaps that would allow air blown from the case to not pass through the rad.

    Have a read: http://www.clunk.org.uk/martins-liqu...d-testing.html

    It may be possible to use something like one of the shrouds mentioned to resolve this leakage.
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    the way I'm understand is you have one case exhaust fan blowing hot air generated from mobo and other components to cool the radiator. Fist of all this is not a good idea, secondly like Grumpy said; is there any gapping between the fan and the rad? If there is, that is your second problem.

    You're using dual rad, so how did you install the second fan?

    Try CoreTemp .099.3 as well http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/CoreTemp.zip
    and don't think Real Temp 2.7 support core i7, the 2.9 beta version is available you can try it http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...alTempBeta.zip

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    Thanks Sky - I was able to go upto stable 3.8OC and am now at 4.02 OC which seems to be stable with idle temps of 42 - 45 and on torture testing around 75-79. Upon stopping the torture test it does rapidly come down to 40's. Also the mother board stays between 42-50. Regarding the quest about the fans they are blowing air out of the case onto the radiator - the radiatir is long enough to need 2 120mm fans next to each other. I did try sucking air from outside throught the radiator into the case but then my MB temp shot up to 50-60 and it took long to cool down after stopping prime 95. Will try and find some shrouds and see what happens. I do have my CPU volt @1.4 Thanks to Sky and Grumpy!

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    Glad we could help, and great OC there!

    Tell your friends about PureOC, stop by anytime.

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