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Thread: Does rad orientation make a difference?

  1. #1
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    Default Does rad orientation make a difference?

    I'd love to do drawings here to make the question clearer but what it boils down to is this...

    Think of all the ways that a rad might fit inside a case..

    vertical barbs at top (normal?)
    vertical barbs at bottom
    horizontal flat barbs at top (as fitted in bottom of case?)
    horizontal flat barbs at bottom (as fitted at top of case?)
    Horizontal on edge barbs to one side

    The reason for this question is mainly aimed at answering the question of bleeding....My pa120.3 has a bleed screw at the opposite end from the barbs but this is not as good as I would like and later models and other makes don't have this. Obviously if the system is improperly bled then performance will suffer.

    Now I can see reasons for mounting in all of the above orientations, but, especially for those setups where the res is not above the rads I wonder how you all set up and how you bleed (especially a top mounted rad)?
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  2. #2
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    Default

    All my rads (Swiftech) don't have bleeds screw and both of my setup (MIIF - P180 project and i7 rig) they both have rad installed at the top, bards facing downward and the res is below the rad.

    I don't have any problem with air pockets or bleeding or priming in that matter. I don't even have to till or sake the case to the air bubbles to escape.

    The most important is to have the pump at the lowest point (bottom of the case), must below the res then you won't have any isssues with primming or bleeding. Just leave the res cap open while you doing leak test or bleedding runs.

    How to prime when the rad at top?
    well, what you have to do is fill up the res, the coolant will run down to the pump by gravity to certain point then it won't go any further. Now plug in the pump to a PSU which you by pass the wire. The pump will pump the coolant in the line until the res empty, stop the pump and fill up the res and repeat this process until you have a consitent flow. REMEMBER DON'T RUN THE PUMP ON DRY. As soon no liquid in the pump inlet tube STOP the pump right away.

    To answer your question; it doesn't make any different in performance wise, some orientations (bottom/side/vertical) may easier to bleed or less air pockets than the top orientations.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Yeah, thats what I thought the situation was with mine, it primed fine, filled fine, ran fine .....then when I had a cover off I opened the bleed screw and lifted the res above the top of the rad and the level in the res dropped around 3 inches before I bled water. But then again I do have that odd setup of vertical barbs at bottom
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  4. #4
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    Default

    what I usualy do is let the pump run for about 2 hours with the res cap opened and listen and observe the coolant flow. If you hear chugging and a lot of bubbles in the line and res then you know the system is not air free. You supposed have no noise coming out from the coolant and the tubes supposed to be clear, no tiny bubbles either. Then you know your system is ready.

    See, if you let the pump sucking air (no coolant in the res) which is mean the pump will pump air in the lines. That's why I said as soon you see the coolant in the inlet line or res empty then you have to stop the pump right away. Basicly you prime the pump in pulse/go manner until the lines/res are filled.

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