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Thread: Boreas Software

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    Thanks jayfunk - I have a ticket started with Coolit, but it will be Monday before they respond. I too have tried reversing the usb, but the B side never would work for me. I just don't understand why it has to be this difficult. All I really want it to do is run 100% constantly...pushing 4.5GHz + here.

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    if its not detecting the MTEC i have to say that maybe you have the cables plugged in wrong. the black ground has to be on the correctt side of the MTEC . on the mobo youre plugging it in to the right slot? with the black on the rcorrect side? theres the plug with two rows of pins one has 4 i think and below it has 5 i think. plug it in to the one with the most pins and make sure the ground is on the correct side.
    did you try pushing the reset button (im sure you did). keep trying different things. try to think what else. i know theres usb options for enable/disable in the bios. dont think those matter but its got to be something. try reinstalling the software. ive never used the firmware. gl

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    Quote Originally Posted by jayfunk View Post
    if its not detecting the MTEC i have to say that maybe you have the cables plugged in wrong. the black ground has to be on the correctt side of the MTEC . on the mobo youre plugging it in to the right slot? with the black on the rcorrect side? theres the plug with two rows of pins one has 4 i think and below it has 5 i think. plug it in to the one with the most pins and make sure the ground is on the correct side.
    did you try pushing the reset button (im sure you did). keep trying different things. try to think what else. i know theres usb options for enable/disable in the bios. dont think those matter but its got to be something. try reinstalling the software. ive never used the firmware. gl
    I have tried the usb cable in many configurations but pretty sure it is correct. The usb header on the mb is not marked, but I have a 50/50 chance, right? Like I said earlier, I had one of the units working well before on another install and I did have the usb reversed on that one...corrected that but still was a pain to get going.

    I just did another install with a 670 Clarksdale/P55 mb and it won't recognize the controller yet. I'm running a 3 and 1/2 hour bench with it atm @ 4.8GHz. It is doing fair, but if I could get it to 100% it would be fantastic. I'll post some results of it later this evening.






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    so i was just wondering what is it that youre doing? the most i can guess is trying to get a huge bench mark score with a boreas. but why? and why would you want to have the boreas at 100% all the time? thats pretty noisy. heres what ive decided just for conversation sake. the idle low temp is not relevant as in who cares how low it can go. what i think matters is how much heat it can disperse. and the boreas can do alot. so if idle is at 28 or 30 who cares. when the load kicks in so will the boreas and youre ok. so what ive done is set things to a happy medium. 4.0 overclock at coolant 24. that way its nice and quiet but when the heavy encoding or gaming comes in i know that itll keep it cool.
    so again just wondering what youre thinking. maybe just doing crazy overclocking for the fun of it. yeah i know its addicting. cheers

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    If you could see all my set-ups I think you would agree the Boreas is near silent compared lol. Really, the fans are nothing to me and yes, I am basicly benchmarking at or beyond 4.5GHz. I am under contract to build about a dozen pc's for a University that must meet certain criteria. These Boreas units are a test I am conducting to possibly replace the water cooling set-up I began with.
    As far as the idle/load temps go, when you are booting at 4.5GHz and beyond you have what is known as "flash" heat that will prevent it from booting if temps are not where they should be for that blk. That is the main reasoning behind the 100% approach. If I could cut the controller completely out of the loop I would do it in a heartbeat.

    The benchmark I am using to finalize my builds can be obtained here: http://www.liquidnitrogenoverclocking.com/

    Give it a try and see how your rig compares. Follows is a pic of the unit that will be replaced by a Boreas if I can get it sorted out. It does a great job at 4.5GHz, but I'm looking for more cushion if you know what I mean.



    Last edited by rickss69; 21-02-2010 at 22:16.

  6. #22
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    Since you have already tried three different OS and it still does not work, so I think the problem is not related to OS.
    I see that you already have the latest software (v1.55) installed but N/A for the firmware. When you first received this unit, what firmware and software did it come with?
    Probably you already have, but have you tried to connect the USB cable (from the MTEC device to the motherboard) to different USB connectors on your motherboard?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hifive View Post
    Since you have already tried three different OS and it still does not work, so I think the problem is not related to OS.
    I see that you already have the latest software (v1.55) installed but N/A for the firmware. When you first received this unit, what firmware and software did it come with?
    Probably you already have, but have you tried to connect the USB cable (from the MTEC device to the motherboard) to different USB connectors on your motherboard?
    I am convinced of that as well, but I had to test to rule it out. The Boreas comes with a install disc but I bypass it and go direct to site for the latest drivers/firmware. Yes, I have tried the other usb headers but understand...this problem spans other cpu/mb's as well. I was initially working with a 920 DO/Evga X58 LE. I am now on a i5 670/Evga P55 and the problem persists.

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    Bench completed and the difference if the Boreas was working at 100% would be the core spikes would have maxed in the lower 50's instead of where they did...



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    Good job con the OC Rick

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    Here is the i5 670 after the firmware finally decided it would install at it's leisure. The i5 family of chips is not on the list of supported cpu's so I tried to trick it by telling it was a Core 2 Dual Extreme...it would not be fooled. That is the reason for the weird cpu temp readings in the MTEC window. RealTemp records it proper and adding power to the "B" side TEC port really made a difference.




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    Quote Originally Posted by jayfunk View Post
    so i was just wondering what is it that youre doing? the most i can guess is trying to get a huge bench mark score with a boreas. but why? and why would you want to have the boreas at 100% all the time? thats pretty noisy. heres what ive decided just for conversation sake. the idle low temp is not relevant as in who cares how low it can go. what i think matters is how much heat it can disperse. and the boreas can do alot. so if idle is at 28 or 30 who cares. when the load kicks in so will the boreas and youre ok. so what ive done is set things to a happy medium. 4.0 overclock at coolant 24. that way its nice and quiet but when the heavy encoding or gaming comes in i know that itll keep it cool.
    so again just wondering what youre thinking. maybe just doing crazy overclocking for the fun of it. yeah i know its addicting. cheers


    And this is coming from the guy that would not stop until he could go past 4.2GHz stable with his 965 lol

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    Hey rick, from looking at the enlarged photo of your tech station I noticed something with your Mtec controller that wrong. Remove the plug from the Input Power for the PCI-e your not running CoolIts video card cooling therefore nothing should be plugged in there, this may very well be your problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doctor_Death View Post
    Hey rick, from looking at the enlarged photo of your tech station I noticed something with your Mtec controller that wrong. Remove the plug from the Input Power for the PCI-e your not running CoolIts video card cooling therefore nothing should be plugged in there, this may very well be your problem.
    DD, are you talking about the MTEC Control device's '' Input Power (PCI-E)'' position ?

    I have this cable plugged in that position currently and I am not using my Boreas to cool a video card. I have always thought this is how power is supplied to the MTEC device + the chiller. No?
    Because of what you said, I dug out the MTEC Control Center Quick Start Guide which lists the first step is to connect this cable (without mentioning anything about a graphic card)?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rickss69 View Post
    Here is the i5 670 after the firmware finally decided it would install at it's leisure. The i5 family of chips is not on the list of supported cpu's so I tried to trick it by telling it was a Core 2 Dual Extreme...it would not be fooled. That is the reason for the weird cpu temp readings in the MTEC window. RealTemp records it proper and adding power to the "B" side TEC port really made a difference.
    So, is everything working properly now?
    The solution is to add power to the ''B'' side ? (By ''B'' side, you mean the side with ''Chiller B'' ?)
    Can you explain a little bit more? This detail may make this thread completed and will be very useful for someone who, in the future, may come across the same problem and somehow find this thread.

    And, would you please post a close-up picture of your MTEC Control Module. I wish to see how all the cables are connected. Thank you.

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    I stand corrected your right hi five I just checked the manual I never use the Mtec, I use the manual controller I get better temps with it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hifive View Post
    So, is everything working properly now?
    The solution is to add power to the ''B'' side ? (By ''B'' side, you mean the side with ''Chiller B'' ?)
    Can you explain a little bit more? This detail may make this thread completed and will be very useful for someone who, in the future, may come across the same problem and somehow find this thread.

    And, would you please post a close-up picture of your MTEC Control Module. I wish to see how all the cables are connected. Thank you.
    hifive - After speaking to Jon at Coolit he informed me that the MTEC controller needed to be powered on both A and B sides. Though not related to my original problem, I found that it did indeed improve the performance of the unit. It can be powered with the supplied adapter cable or another pci-e conn. off the psu.


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