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Thread: The Maximus Formula Club

  1. #385
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    Wreckwriter;
    your temps look normal, try to tidy up those cables and it will helps improve on the case air flow. Do you have any intake fan?

  2. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deton View Post
    Wreckwriter;
    your temps look normal, try to tidy up those cables and it will helps improve on the case air flow. Do you have any intake fan?
    I have one intake fan, very low airflow due to low RPM and poor case design. Better fan ordered, should have it tomorrow or next day. Will be doing a bit of modding to the way the intake air flows too.

    Yes, cables/wires will be fixed too, hadn't got to it yet....

  3. #387
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    Got parts yesterday. Removed front panel and replaced the stock fan with a high speed Yate-Loon. Also removed intake filter and cut out grill behind fan which was restricting air flow dramatically. Will replace exhaust fans tonight. I also did some shifting of my hard drive mounting positions to allow more airflow into the case and cleaned up my wiring and cabling as much as was possible (not many places to stow things).

    Tonight I'm going to reseat the CPU water block with AS-5 and call it best I can do.

  4. #388
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    don't forget to post some pics if you can.

  5. #389
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    Default NB Heatsink problems!

    Hey there

    I've had the Maximus Formula since January now and I've been fairly happy with the board. My main problem though is that when I built the system, I foolishly messed around with the heat sink for the NB/SB in order to get my CPU heatsink on. Turns out I didn't need to do ANYTHIGN to the NB/SB heatsink to get my Scythe Ninja Rev.B CPU cooler on there, but I did, and here's what happened:

    I first attempted to bend the pins on the NB/SB heatsink to allow for more room for the heatpipes on my CPU cooler. This later turned out to be unnecessary and resulted in some 'cosmetic' damage to my NB/SB heatsink :$. Anyway, after that I tried to remove the whole unit, but I could not get past the black pins. I realised at some point that I was indeed able to get the CPU heatsink on without all this trouble, but unfortunately after removing some of the screws for the NB/SB heatsink I am unable to put them back in. I push and push on the heatsink but the screws WILL NOT reach the holes in the board. The result is that my NB/SB heatsink is slanted and is not cooling my NB effectively. My NB usually sits around 50C under load, with a small overclock. I can't overclock my new x3350 (q9450) CPU further until I can get these NB temps down. Should I remove the whole NB/SB heatsink and try again? I have some better thermal paste which would help make removing the NB/SB heatsink more worthwhile, but the thought of removing it and not being able to put it back on (or just damaging something in the processess) scares the hell out of me. Any suggestions/tips?
    I've been considering as well possibly just replacing the NB/SB coolers with something aftermarket and avoiding the whole hassle with this existing heatsink. Since my CPU is locked at an 8x multiplier I need to get as much out of my FSB as possible in order to get my max clock speed. Should I go with better NB/SB heatsinks? I dont mind spending the money. Which ones do you guys recommend? Will it fit with the rather large Scythe Ninja Rev.B cooler + fan?

    Here's a picture of my problem:

  6. #390
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    Try to use long nose plier to straighten those bended fins.
    Check the NB/SB heatsink for bend or warp, this is might a cause for the hard time of pushing the lock down pins down, make sure it stay perfect flat to the NB/SB chips.

    If you have no luck then you replace them with the thread screw & nut/washer kind. You can buy this at home hardware store. Take the push down pin with you to the store, so you can get a proper size and lenght.

    Hope this help.

  7. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deton View Post
    Try to use long nose plier to straighten those bended fins.
    Check the NB/SB heatsink for bend or warp, this is might a cause for the hard time of pushing the lock down pins down, make sure it stay perfect flat to the NB/SB chips.

    If you have no luck then you replace them with the thread screw & nut/washer kind. You can buy this at home hardware store. Take the push down pin with you to the store, so you can get a proper size and lenght.

    Hope this help.
    So you think I should keep the stock heatsink and not upgrade? I dont think the heatsink is really warped at all.. but I could be wrong. I'm leaning toward replacing the heatsink altogether so i can get even better cooling performance and not have to mess around with this one any further. What replacements would you recommend? Also, I saw the posts earlier about how to remove the heatsink and it sounds really tricky. Any further tips/advice? Thanks for the quick reply

  8. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn0w420 View Post
    So you think I should keep the stock heatsink and not upgrade? I dont think the heatsink is really warped at all.. but I could be wrong. I'm leaning toward replacing the heatsink altogether so i can get even better cooling performance and not have to mess around with this one any further. What replacements would you recommend? Also, I saw the posts earlier about how to remove the heatsink and it sounds really tricky. Any further tips/advice? Thanks for the quick reply
    Well, it's hard to recommend which one is best fit because I personally never replace my. There are tons of chipset heatsink availables on the market but I'm not sure which one is going to fit perfectly with the Maximus?

    You should go with a low profile one with lock down pins or screws type (don't buy the adhesive type, they're crap) such as Enzotech Forged Low Profile Copper Northbridge Heatsink for NB/SB. Since you're already use high profile CPU HFS, you just don't want to have any more problem with another high profile cooler. You might not be able to use the fan for the SB one if you're doing Crossfire setup, I'm not sure about the clearance height on this?

    Here are the down fall of using this heatsink; you will have more noises due to the fans and I don't know how much cooler you're going to get compare to the stock heatsink with a better thermal paste replacement. Most of people removed the stock heatsink to replace it with watercooling blocks or re-apply with a better qaulity thermal paste. You'll have better temp result with a new thermal paste such as AS5.

    Ok, you'll have a hard time to remove the stock heatsink becasue you're already fired up the board. It must easier to remove it if it haven't been used. Do this if you have a difficult to remove it;
    • Use a can of compressed air (Airdust) and spray it directly onto the heatsink (NB/S, keep the nozzle about 1" away from it, you want it really cold. Spray it about 2-5 mins, this cold air will freezed up the thermal paste to cause it to loose its grip, then use a small screwdriver (flat head) to pry (gentle motion, use a protector such as a rubber washer put it under screwdriver head to protect the MOBO) it off at each corners of NB/SB heatsink.
    Good Luck.

  9. #393
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    Hello everyone,

    I've had the ASUS Maximus Formula for about a month now, and so far I like it a lot. Very stable board, lots of BIOS options to tweak, and it performs quite well overall. I especially like the onboard audio solution.

    Right now I'm running a Q6600 processor that is cooled by a Cool-It Freezone Elite cooler. Problem is, I'm not able to use the cooler to its maximum potential due to poor Northbridge temperatures. Right now I'm running at a 333MHz FSB with default Northbridge voltage, and Everest reports the temp at 54 degrees. When I tried upping the FSB to 400MHz, my BIOS reported temps approaching 70 degrees, and as such I couldn't boot into Windows.

    I've read the post above that indicated using a can of compressed air to freeze the NB heatsink so I can remove it, but am unsure what else I have to do. Since the NB heatsink is tied to the Southbridge, and (I presume) the MOSFET heatsink as well, I'm curious as to exactly what I have to do to remove it.

    Any help would be appreciated. I really want to try hitting 400MHz FSB (3.6GHz), but there is simply no way I can do it without lowering my Northbridge temps.

  10. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devhux View Post
    Hello everyone,

    I've had the ASUS Maximus Formula for about a month now, and so far I like it a lot. Very stable board, lots of BIOS options to tweak, and it performs quite well overall. I especially like the onboard audio solution.

    Right now I'm running a Q6600 processor that is cooled by a Cool-It Freezone Elite cooler. Problem is, I'm not able to use the cooler to its maximum potential due to poor Northbridge temperatures. Right now I'm running at a 333MHz FSB with default Northbridge voltage, and Everest reports the temp at 54 degrees. When I tried upping the FSB to 400MHz, my BIOS reported temps approaching 70 degrees, and as such I couldn't boot into Windows.

    I've read the post above that indicated using a can of compressed air to freeze the NB heatsink so I can remove it, but am unsure what else I have to do. Since the NB heatsink is tied to the Southbridge, and (I presume) the MOSFET heatsink as well, I'm curious as to exactly what I have to do to remove it.

    Any help would be appreciated. I really want to try hitting 400MHz FSB (3.6GHz), but there is simply no way I can do it without lowering my Northbridge temps.
    Devhux, congrats on your new rig!
    Go back and read page 21 & 23 in this thread you will find a discussion about how (tips) to remove the heatsink.

    You have 2 choices after the successful removed the heatsink;
    1. replace stock thermal paste with a good quality aftermarket paste. eg: AS5
    2. replace stock heatsink with aftermarket heatsinks (NB/S altogether, you have no choice on this but you can reuse the MOFFEST heatsinks. It can be seperates from the NB/SB heatsink by removing a couple screws.
    You can improve your case air flow, it will help as well. The cause of high temp for the NB because of the HD3870 X2 and the Cosmos graphic card wind tunnel. This is a piece of crap, it doesn't work. That's why CoolerMaster came out the Cosmos S version with 200mm side instake fan. Replace the wind tunnel with an addition fan pointing at the NB and video card.

    If NB temp reach beyond 50c then your OC will fail, system crashes.

  11. #395
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    Im running my q6600 @ 3.33ghz and NB goes to 55 when on full load using prime, NB voltage is at 1.36 if i go to 1.34 it crashes. So NB can go over 50 and be ok it seems.

  12. #396
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    i think i am gonna get one of these fans for my NB.

    http://www.antec.com/us/productDetai...?ProdID=75018#

    when my NB hits 50c my games start to freeze up.
    ________
    strawberry cough
    Last edited by jrs2008; 26-01-2011 at 14:28.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrs2008 View Post
    i think i am gonna get one of these fans for my NB.

    http://www.antec.com/us/productDetai...?ProdID=75018#

    when my NB hits 50c my games start to freeze up.

    That actually looks really good

  14. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kraven View Post
    Im running my q6600 @ 3.33ghz and NB goes to 55 when on full load using prime, NB voltage is at 1.36 if i go to 1.34 it crashes. So NB can go over 50 and be ok it seems.
    I'm without my maximus at the moment but with an intake fan blowing from the front of and another fitted in the side panel of my antec 900 (both kind of alligned with N my stock MB never ran NB temps over 40*C even at 3.6Ghz so I say MOVE MORE AIR! or maybe consider a different case.

    Edit: Oh and read Cloudcat's post on case thermodynamics in Air Cooling
    Last edited by grumpydaddy; 13-04-2008 at 16:27. Reason: Add comment

  15. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpydaddy View Post
    I'm without my maximus at the moment but with an intake fan blowing from the front of and another fitted in the side panel of my antec 900 (both kind of alligned with N my stock MB never ran NB temps over 40*C even at 3.6Ghz so I say MOVE MORE AIR! or maybe consider a different case.

    Edit: Oh and read Cloudcat's post on case thermodynamics in Air Cooling
    Coolmaster stacker 832 with 3 fans on side panel blowing at mobo etc, 1 large fan as exhaust and 1 fan on hard drives. Cables all tied back to i assure you i got great airflow, i have the SE version of the maximus and have no watercoolin on it. Can see my fan setup with this bad pic

    http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/7417/dscf0031ub9.jpg

    Might get that fan jrs mentioned.

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    Jrs2008 & Kraven;
    Have you guys consider how you're going to install it on a dommed heatsink???
    It doesn't come with heatsink but does required mounting wholes. You need some modification here if you want to use this fan with the stock heatsink.

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