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Thread: The Maximus Formula Club

  1. #625
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    right so here is why I'm using the rampage mod.

    Because actual OC did not want to run on maximus BIOS 1201....just tried to change the BIOS to maximus and.. guess what no joy.....

    tried it with 1200 Mhz of ram and 1066(stock). and no joy what so ever....
    but its quite possible that i was doing something wrong so here are my OC specs:

    Extreme Tweaker
    Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
    CPU Ratio Control : Manual
    - Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
    FSB Frequency : 400
    FSB Strap to North Bridge :AUTO
    PCI-E Frequency: 110
    DRAM Frequency: DDR2 - 1203
    DRAM Command Rate : 2N
    DRAM Timing Control: Manual
    CAS# Latency : 5
    RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
    RAS# Precharge : 5
    RAS# ActivateTime : 15
    RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
    Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
    Write Recovery Time : Auto
    Read to Precharge Time : Auto
    Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
    Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
    Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
    Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
    Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
    Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
    Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
    DRAM Static Read Control: ENABLED
    Ai Clock Twister : LIGHT
    Transaction Booster : Auto

    CPU Voltage : 1.5 (EVEREST 1.5)
    CPU PLL Voltage : AUTO
    North Bridge Voltage : 1.41v (everest 1.4v)
    DRAM Voltage : 2.34v (everest 2.4v)
    FSB Termination Voltage : 1.20v (everest 1.12v)
    South Bridge Voltage : 1.05v (everest 1.07)
    Loadline Calibration : Enabled
    CPU GTL Reference : X0.63
    North Bridge GTL Reference : x0.67
    DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : Auto
    DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : Auto
    DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR_REF
    SB 1.5V Voltage : AUTO
    Voltiminder LED : Enbled
    NB LED Selection : NB Volt
    SB LED Selection : SB Volt
    CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
    CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
    PCIE Spread Spectrum :disabled

    temps:
    idle/load
    MB: 35/39
    CPU 30/49
    NB 53(!!)/ up to 60
    SB 53/ 58
    ambient: 18

    if you would have any alterations I would be very grateful. Iknow that NB is high but it went down from 66(load) coz i opened the case....at the moment after 45 min prime I've got 55 on it.

    Ohh and by the way DETON absolutely CLASS of a rig you got there!!!

    oh yeah one more thing . All the settings under CPU section like vanderpool, C1E, speedTM i have disabled
    Last edited by Geralt; 03-07-2008 at 19:11.

  2. #626
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    My first thought is.......go to post #395 and read posts by kraven about spot fan. what I'm seeing is a dead spot in the airflow maybe caused by graphics card

    If you want to prove that there will be an improvement using such....put a table fan next to case (afterall it is open already) and watch the temp results.

    If you get NB in high 30s or so you will be able to consider a tad more NBvolts which might improve your overclock as is the case too with fsbtv

    let us know what happens
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  3. #627
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    I'm still using 0907 version.
    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post

    Extreme Tweaker
    Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
    CPU Ratio Control : Manual
    - Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
    FSB Frequency : 400
    FSB Strap to North Bridge :AUTO (400)
    PCI-E Frequency: 110
    DRAM Frequency: DDR2 - 1203 (1066)
    DRAM Command Rate : 2N <-- is this suppose 2T, I guess it's N for rampage?
    DRAM Timing Control: Manual
    CAS# Latency : 5
    RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
    RAS# Precharge : 5
    RAS# ActivateTime : 15
    RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
    Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
    Write Recovery Time : Auto
    Read to Precharge Time : Auto
    Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
    Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
    Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
    Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
    Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
    Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
    Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
    DRAM Static Read Control: ENABLED
    Ai Clock Twister : LIGHT
    Transaction Booster : Auto enable
    Boot: 0

    CPU Voltage : 1.5 (EVEREST 1.5) try to go lower if you can, kinda high for 3.6ghz
    CPU PLL Voltage : AUTO 1.60v
    North Bridge Voltage : 1.41v (everest 1.4v) try to go lower, my only at 1.39v
    DRAM Voltage : 2.34v (everest 2.4v) wow, you really pushed your ram
    FSB Termination Voltage : 1.20v (everest 1.12v) you might have to increase this voltage if it unstable.
    South Bridge Voltage : 1.05v (everest 1.07)
    Loadline Calibration : Enabled
    CPU GTL Reference : X0.63
    North Bridge GTL Reference : x0.67
    DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : Auto
    DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : Auto
    DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR_REF? DDR2_REF
    SB 1.5V Voltage : AUTO
    Voltiminder LED : Enbled
    NB LED Selection : NB Volt
    SB LED Selection : SB Volt
    CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
    CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
    PCIE Spread Spectrum :disabled

    temps:
    idle/load
    MB: 35/39
    CPU 30/49
    NB 53(!!)/ up to 60
    SB 53/ 58
    ambient: 18
    your ram is actually run faster than your CPU(400):RAM (533)

    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post
    if you would have any alterations I would be very grateful. Iknow that NB is high but it went down from 66(load) coz i opened the case....at the moment after 45 min prime I've got 55 on it.

    Ohh and by the way DETON absolutely CLASS of a rig you got there!!!

    oh yeah one more thing . All the settings under CPU section like vanderpool, C1E, speedTM i have disabled
    you are not suppose to open side panel to have a better air flow.
    what kind of case do you have?
    you need to improve on the case air flow, you might need to install more intake fan(s) or put a spot fan point at the NB or do Heatpipe mod

  4. #628
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    i finally got a decent cpu cooler. i was using stock one before. i got a thermalrite ultra 120. now i would like to crank up the speeds of my e3110. i used ai suite to overclock my old cpu, but it just crashes when i use it now. does anyone have some settings i can use to speed up the e3110. i have everything at auto and i dont know where to start.
    ________
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    Last edited by jrs2008; 26-01-2011 at 15:28.

  5. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrs2008 View Post
    i finally got a decent cpu cooler. i was using stock one before. i got a thermalrite ultra 120. now i would like to crank up the speeds of my e3110. i used ai suite to overclock my old cpu, but it just crashes when i use it now. does anyone have some settings i can use to speed up the e3110. i have everything at auto and i dont know where to start.
    This is where you should start of, a mild overclocking for your Xeon.
    Code:
    Extreme Tweaker 
    Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual 
    CPU Ratio Control : Manual 
    - Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
    FSB Frequency : 400
    FSB Strap to North Bridge : 400
    PCI-E Frequency: 100
    DRAM Frequency: DDR2 - 1066
    DRAM Command Rate : 2T
    DRAM Timing Control: Manual 
    CAS# Latency : input your ram rate
    RAS# to CAS# Delay : input your ram rate
    RAS# Precharge : input your ram rate
    RAS# ActivateTime : input your ram rate
    RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
    Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
    Write Recovery Time : Auto
    Read to Precharge Time : Auto
    Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
    Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
    Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
    Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
    Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
    Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
    Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
    DRAM Static Read Control: Auto
    Ai Clock Twister : Light
    Transaction Booster : Auto
     
    CPU Voltage : 1.5v work you way down, your Xeon takes less voltage
    CPU PLL Voltage : 1.5v 
    North Bridge Voltage : 1.3v 
    DRAM Voltage : input your ram rate voltage 
    FSB Termination Voltage : 1.20v 
    South Bridge Voltage : 1.05v 
    Loadline Calibration : Enabled
    CPU GTL Reference : Auto
    North Bridge GTL Reference : Auto
    DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : Auto
    DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : Auto
    DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : Auto
    SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.5v
    Voltiminder LED : Enbled
    NB LED Selection : NB Volt 
    SB LED Selection : SB Volt 
    CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt 
    CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
    PCIE Spread Spectrum : Auto
    You have to fiddle with the DRAM Freq if you get stuck at DET RAM post, and you have to do the tweaking with CPU, CPU PLL, NB, FSB Termination voltages find the right voltage for your setting to get Prime95 stable.

  6. The following user thanks Deton For this above post:

    jrs2008 (16-07-2008)

  7. #630
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deton View Post
    I'm still using 0907 version.

    your ram is actually run faster than your CPU(400):RAM (533)


    you are not suppose to open side panel to have a better air flow.
    what kind of case do you have?
    you need to improve on the case air flow, you might need to install more intake fan(s) or put a spot fan point at the NB or do Heatpipe mod

    I have thermaltake Armour LCS
    http://www.thermaltake.com/product/C.../ve2000bws.asp
    I was thinking about replacing NB with after market but it kinda freaks me out that I would have to take off the whole radiator( NB, SB, MOSFET) and I'm not sure can I just put LC block on NB only...And allso will my LC system will manage NB block ang GFX block ( which I'M planning to buy, prabably full block for Radeon from EK) so could you give me any guidance how could I check that out??? once again I would be very grateful(I'll be youre slave for a month )

    I tried to go lower with CPU voltage but at 1.48 Prime was kicking out after 5 minutes....
    as it goes for FSBT I have 1.54 ( not 1.20) .... I dont know where that came from..... maybe because I was wirting it at midnight my time soo..... you know you're self....
    And could you explain what kind of issue is that RAM is going faster that CPU.... (at the moment its 400:600, so its roughly 2:3 divider... or maybe the other way around...) i think I'm lost with them dividers....
    @my OC: there should be DDR2_REF of course...2N is 2T for Rampage
    my stock voltego for that RAM is 2.3 so its not too high....
    tried NB on lower but it was unstable
    ...and as it goes for stability Prime 95 kicked out on me after two hours( well not whole but one core had a hardware failure on small FFT) but i dont think I'll use full cores load for two hours non stop so i think its stable enough( as it was said befor games, applications are using about30-40% so it should be ok....
    Last edited by Geralt; 04-07-2008 at 05:23.

  8. #631
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post
    I was thinking about replacing NB with after market but it kinda freaks me out that I would have to take off the whole radiator( NB, SB, MOSFET) and I'm not sure can I just put LC block on NB only...And allso will my LC system will manage NB block ang GFX block ( which I'M planning to buy, prabably full block for Radeon from EK) so could you give me any guidance how could I check that out??? once again I would be very grateful(I'll be youre slave for a month )

    (at the moment its 400:600, so its roughly 2:3 divider... or maybe the other way around...) i think I'm lost with them dividers....

    ...and as it goes for stability Prime 95 kicked out on me after two hours( well not whole but one core had a hardware failure on small FFT) but i dont think I'll use full cores load for two hours non stop so i think its stable enough( as it was said befor games, applications are using about30-40% so it should be ok....
    So you want be my slave huh?....fellars U'rs my witness.
    Yes it will be pain in the butt to dissamble a WC system but thing must be done. If you want to replace the stock heatpipe then you have to replace NB & SB because it connected with a heatpipe. You can only put a water block on the NB and use aftermarket heatsink for the SB or you can reuse the stock heatsink by breaking off the heatpipe, just use a screwdriver pry the heatpipe off the SB sinks or do watercool for both. You can reuse stock mosfet heatsink, it's not connected.

    Here is my guide how to remove the heatpipe http://forums.pureoverclock.com/showthread.php?t=3497

    As for the WC, I don't think your system can handle a CPU, NB and GRFX. You might get away with a CPU & NB. If your temps correctly reported then your cores temp is around mid 45(idle) and mid 65(load) and your ambient only 18c. That indicate your WC system is weak.

    Check out this watercooling guide http://forums.pureoverclock.com/showthread.php?t=2495 read the RADIATOR section carefully about its capacity.

    Confusing about the dividers?....here is a thread for pleasure reading
    http://forums.pureoverclock.com/showthread.php?t=2368&page=2

    About your instability issues, I think it is heat the culprit.
    Well, I hope this help.

  9. #632
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    So I've read the topic about dividers and to be frank i still dont know...:confused: :$as I said before I have 3:2 divider soo... is it good or bad. Well I can say other thing when I tried to run 1066 the LAG when starting windows was good few seconds higher than it is at actual setting.
    Oh and about my case what do you think of it heap of scrap or will do?? As you said DETONN the air flow must be sustained but as grumpy daddy admited I have a dead spot because a Great Wall of ATI so I'm planning to exchange my side panel to one with 250mm radiator. That should improve something shouldn't it??And whats the story with core temps int everest. It shows me temp of CPU around 45 and core around 65 is that accurate?? Another thing about my WC- basically its Thermaltake Big Water but with radiator that has two 120mm fans on it 500l/h pump and copper/acrylic CPU block. Are tose temps normal under full load??. What will happen if i GFX full block with it - will it manage?? Sorry for lot of questions but better ask than burn.... isnt it??
    Last edited by Geralt; 04-07-2008 at 16:36.

  10. #633
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    3:2 is not bad, it means your ram run faster than the FSB. Your ram rated at 1066 (533mhz) and you run it at 1200 (600mhz) which is mean you just overclocked it.

    Windows lag at boot?
    Maybe you need more RAM, 2GB is ok with Vista32 and it all depends how much do you have any program run in the background at start up too?
    IMO, you need at least 4GB for Vista32. I always double up whatever MS recommended, their recomend for the OS never included the other software.

    Ok, I just looked at your case specs and correct me if I'm wrong;
    2 rear exhaust fans and 1 at top and two instake fans in the front and they are also use for the radiator?
    If it is correct then NO NO....bad layout. It is good idea to provide fresh air for the radiator but you just exhaust all heat inside the case, plus the heat from your 3870X2. Wonder why you have high temps.

    You should reverse the front instake fans (rad) to pull hot air out and maybe use the top or rear exhaust fans as intake. I would use the big fan as instake though. I bet you will have a better temp when you do this little mod.
    Let us know the result.

    edit:
    Another thing about my WC- basically its Thermaltake Big Water but with radiator that has two 120mm fans on it 500l/h pump and copper/acrylic CPU block. Are tose temps normal under full load??. What will happen if i GFX full block with it - will it manage?? Sorry for lot of questions but better ask than burn.... isnt it??
    one double rad (120.2) is not enough for overclocked Quad Core CPU and 3870X2 (this sucker are hot). You need a triple rad at least (120.3) if you want better temp for CPU & 3870X2 or event better do 2 seperate loops (one for CPU and the other dedicate for video card(s))

    If your pump rated correctly (500L/h) then it is strong enough to add on an addition rad, double or triple will be ok.

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    Why would you put the cooling system INSIDE the case??? outside it has fresh air for removing heat and nothing to keep the heat in

    Hot air rises...get more cfm on the exhaust and at the top

    Find a way to push fresh air into the case below the GPUs. If you will eventually upgrade your case consider modding the side panel of this one in the intrim.

    If you make ALL your fans exhaust fans that mod could just be intake vents (holes)
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    OK, lads. YOU SMART ME DUMB

    I've just changed fans around and I can see straight away that NB went down 10 degrees...

    I will see how it goes with that but as far as i can see after couple of minutes of prime CPU temp are bit higher few degrees.... but we'll see

    ok, I'm your slave now

    Give an Order and i'll OBEY

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    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post
    OK, lads. YOU SMART ME DUMB

    I've just changed fans around and I can see straight away that NB went down 10 degrees...

    I will see how it goes with that but as far as i can see after couple of minutes of prime CPU temp are bit higher few degrees.... but we'll see

    ok, I'm your slave now

    Give an Order and i'll OBEY
    LOL.... Geralt, you are not that NOOB, just didn't know that's all
    just pay if forward.
    we're glad that you've solved the problem.

    By the way, if you are still not happy with the results you can install a fan on the side panel window, you need a little modification here.


    Quote Originally Posted by grumpydaddy View Post
    Why would you put the cooling system INSIDE the case??? outside it has fresh air for removing heat and nothing to keep the heat in

    Hot air rises...get more cfm on the exhaust and at the top

    Find a way to push fresh air into the case below the GPUs. If you will eventually upgrade your case consider modding the side panel of this one in the intrim.

    If you make ALL your fans exhaust fans that mod could just be intake vents (holes)
    some people like to install the radiator internallly, that including me. It looks much neater, the case won't look like a tank. I have 3 rads installed inside my TJ09, amagine what my case will be look like if they are out side of the case.

    However, it all depends on the case if it is big enough to do so and air flow as well.

    You're correct about heat raises. The reason I told Geralt to use top or rear exhaust fans as instake because they are close to the CPU & NB, it will aids them better than the bottom one.

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    I can see the argument for sleek vs. mean look but the overriding consideration must be that it works.

    The antec900 looks like cr6p but it works for air users and is flexible. But I reckon you'd need 2 strapped side by side to fit big water cooling inside.

    I wonder, Deton, will you ever move to a big cube?
    Rig2: 2*e5-26xx (16c/32t @2.4), Asus z9 pe-d8 ws, 32gb ripjawsz under water, rig3 2*e5-26xx (16c/32t @2.4), Supermicro 7047A-T 16GB 1600 ecc reg, on air, Rig4: 2*e5-26xx (16c/32t @3.1), Supermicro x9 DAi 16GB 1600 ecc reg, on air, Rig5: 2*e5-2660 (16c/32t @2.7), Supermicro x9 DRW iF 32GB 1600 ecc reg, on air

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    hehe i think there are pics of my old water setup around, there was no way i could have gotten the rad in any case

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jameson View Post
    hehe i think there are pics of my old water setup around, there was no way i could have gotten the rad in any case
    haha....I've seen that rad. It big as a house.

    Quote Originally Posted by grumpydaddy View Post
    I can see the argument for sleek vs. mean look but the overriding consideration must be that it works.

    The antec900 looks like cr6p but it works for air users and is flexible. But I reckon you'd need 2 strapped side by side to fit big water cooling inside.

    I wonder, Deton, will you ever move to a big cube?
    It's not an argument, it's just a personal thing. Yes, an exterior rad performs better than the interior one.

    big cube?...you mean something like Mountain cases?....no not really, it's too buldky for my liking. My office/desk is kinda small, no room for it. Those cases have plenty of room for watercooling though. I bet they are heavy too when it fully loaded. Even with my TJ09, I already put it on a er stand wheeler so I can wheel it around when I work on it. It's damn heavy for lifting.

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    ok, the prime kicked off after around 4 hours or so ( I'm not sure coz I was asleep ) but its better than it was coz before it was kicking off after an hour...
    And what would you say if I would put another 120.2 radiator onto my WC system?? iwas thinking about this one (you know stick to the same brand for sureness that everything will fit and stuff...)

    http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Produc...C=1162&ID=1637

    Would this allow me to connect gfx as well. Will the pressure of flow be ok then?? And if yes where should I install it?? 2 rads in the row or rad between CPU an GFX??
    another thing is would it be better to exchange the side panel to another one with 250 mm fan or drill the plexi in the old one and put two or three 80 mm in it?? IMHO the 250mm would cool down MB evenly but couple of 80 mm would have better air flow.... Damn once again I have flooded you with questions... you probably hate by now but as i said befor better ask than burn

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