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Thread: jayfunks boreas wants a Heatkiller!!

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    Default jayfunks boreas wants a Heatkiller!!

    i want to place my order and i cant wait but im a bit confused.

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=230715

    it seems like i need one 45 fitting and two compression fittings for my 1/4 inch boreas tubing???
    is this right? i dont want to order and waste my hard-earned money on ones that don't work.

    im in process of figuring this out with the Sidewinder guy but hes suggested simple barbs and the metal hardware clamps are kinda stinky looking i think, so i want those fance compression ones that you guys got. but i cant seem to find them aaarrrrrggggg
    all assistance greatly appreciated


    ps i like the rotary ones but cant seem to find them either

    http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fittingstubing.html
    Last edited by jayfunk; 31-08-2009 at 21:56.

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    The problem with compression fittings on a Heatkiller is that they are too wide, due to the hole spacing. What you would need, is either 2x 45 degree fittings + 2x 1/4 ID compression fittings OR 2x 1/4 ID barb fittings. Yes, with the barb fittings you will need to use hose clamps. Either choice is fine, but the compression fittings are more expensive as you need a total of four fittings, but are more aesthetically pleasing.

    A word of warning though, the Boreas's barbs are just a little bigger than normal size, so although it may appear that they won't fit, you really have to put forth some effort to get them on there. They will fit, but its tight. Also, just make sure that you use 1/4 ID tubing. I can suggest this from sidewinder: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/tysiantu1id31.html. The silver inside the tubing makes it much less likely too build up bacteria/ algae. Also, I'd recommend the coolant as well: Feser VS.C° - Heat Carrier Fluid - 500 mL. It's made to keep low temps, and to keep your various metals from reacting with each other. Sidewinder also has it cheaper than anywhere else. Surprisingly enough, a 1/2 liter goes farther than you think it would, I bought two of them and only needed half of one to fill a Boreas, res, Heatkiller, and tubing (went overkill on the tubing as well, lol). All in all, should help to keep things as chilly as possible. :cool:
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    jayfunk (31-08-2009)

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    awesome dooood thanks so much...
    the thing of it is.. seems like now i need a res? and what ive heard is that the cool coolant mixes with the warm ambient res temps and its not good. better to keep the closed loop of the boreas. if i could just fill the boreas loop thatd be great!1 is that possible? and how do i do it?
    and what rez would yall recommend?
    its been recommended that i take it to CoolIT (which is just down the street from me) and ask them if they would fill it for me??

    ps... are you saying i need to change ALL the hoses? i dont know bud that seems a bit crazy. how would the new coolant that you recommend go with the stock boreas hose? id probably have to flush it and clean them out first before adding the new coolant... aaaarrggg this is getting crraaaaaazy all for 2 degrees hahahahaaha........ im it!!!!!
    Last edited by jayfunk; 31-08-2009 at 22:52.

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    Jay, if you see my worklog i am also using the Heatkiller 1366 with compression fittings
    you need 2 of these then attach whatever size compression fittings on the other end.
    the 2 outlets on the heatkiller is too close together and you need these angle barbs to space them apart


    http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bishsiduro45.html



    hope it helps

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    WO!! thats some pretty sexy shizzz you got there bud... dang! i got drool in my keyboard....


    i cant seem to find 1/4 id compression fittings for the boreas tubing??
    the boreas is 3/8 od and i found these.....


    http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bi1cofifor3o1.html
    are these the right ones for my boreas tubing? im not sure??
    Last edited by jayfunk; 01-09-2009 at 00:29.

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    That's the one.
    TBH, you don't really need 45 rotary adapters because you are using 1/4"ID tubing, it's very easy to routing the tube. The 45 fiting needed when you use with bigger tubes because of its stiffness, hard to bend. Save the money, not to spend on the unnescessary.

    Wanna to get the tubes to fit onto the bards easily, deep it in the hot water first.

    Regarding about the res; Boreas is a coolant chilled system, if you must add on a res then put it before the Boreas. Which is mean you want hot coolant to enter the res first before it reaches the chiller.

    About coolant, you're better use proper one, it will help to bring the temps down quicker. CoolIt sells their own brand for their chiller. Keep this in mind, CoolIt uses aluminum heat exchanger (blue units) and water blocks are copper. So you have mix metal here. USE PROPER COOLANT OR YOU WILL BE SORRY.

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    I have a Heatkiller 3.0 and I use 1/2" ID tubing with regular straight barbs. It works just fine with some hose clamps I picked up at Pep Boys.

    I'd recommend distilled water with some basic biocide for coolant, but since you're mixing metals, that's a recipe for disaster.

    Just make sure that you don't use the dyed fluid or your stuff will be gunked like crazy after a while.

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    pic
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jayfunks boreas wants a Heatkiller!!-p1010175.jpg  

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    When shopping for fittings, performance-pcs.com has more fittings available than sidewinder does.

    Also, you don't need to change all of the tubing, but I'd change the ones leaving the Boreas, going to the heatkiller, and the ones going to the res. Also, it would be too bad of an idea to use a rad, provided that you use it correctly. Deton will correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I would go:

    PUMP -> RAD -> Boreas -> Heatkiller -> res -> pump

    Now, if you really wanted to have some fun, you could also mount a single 120mm rad on each side of the Boreas and then the fans. You'd have to either mount the Boreas on the top of your case or outside the case, but it could be done (with some extra tubing routing). If you mount it outside the case, I'd get a piece of MDF board, and then put a piece of Neoprene on top of the board to reduce vibrations. Then just mount your Boreas to the board outside the case. With the dual-rad + Boreas idea, I'd route the tubing something like this:

    Pump -> Rad 1 -> TEC block 1 -> Rad 2 -> other 3 TEC blocks -> Heatkiller -> Res -> Pump

    Again, this is just an idea, and Deton might be able to help a little more than I on if this would even be feasible. Don't really see a Boreas being mounted inside of an Antec 1200 personally, although I'm sure it could be done with proper modding.

    Oh and to answer your question about a res, here's the one I used for a while: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25392 This is a combo Pump/ Res so it takes up less space, and the pump is slow enough to allow the TEC's to cool the liquid. Also has a blue LED to match the default coloring of the fans on your 1200.

    Hope some of this helps.
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    Bully you're making me all hot and bothered with those new interior pics

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    Jay...would like to see a work log from your boreas built ya ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyguy View Post
    Bully you're making me all hot and bothered with those new interior pics
    sky my project is done and completed
    finally i can take a back sit and rest after 3 months of murderMod! I now call it sucideMod LOL!

    you can check out the completed worklog thread when you are free

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    Quote Originally Posted by shattered.likeness View Post
    .................
    Deton will correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I would go:

    PUMP -> RAD -> Boreas -> Heatkiller -> res -> pump
    This is what I was talking about.
    Nothing wrong here.

    Quote Originally Posted by shattered.likeness View Post
    Now, if you really wanted to have some fun, you could also mount a single 120mm rad on each side of the Boreas and then the fans. You'd have to either mount the Boreas on the top of your case or outside the case, but it could be done (with some extra tubing routing). If you mount it outside the case, I'd get a piece of MDF board, and then put a piece of Neoprene on top of the board to reduce vibrations. Then just mount your Boreas to the board outside the case. With the dual-rad + Boreas idea, I'd route the tubing something like this:

    Pump -> Rad 1 -> TEC block 1 -> Rad 2 -> other 3 TEC blocks -> Heatkiller -> Res -> Pump

    Again, this is just an idea, and Deton might be able to help a little more than I on if this would even be feasible. Don't really see a Boreas being mounted inside of an Antec 1200 personally, although I'm sure it could be done with proper modding.
    Now be careful when you add on to much inline rad will harm the Boreas performance. It's the equilibrium physic. You need to know the exact coolant temps when it exist the CPU block, if it's higher than ambient temps then it's ok to add on inline rad but if it's lower than ambient temps then the rad is useless. Because it will work opposite as its designed, a heater instead dissipating heat.

    I don't know about Boreas (never test one yet) but if I remember correctly the Elite's TEC only can chill the coolant at 17°C is the lowest.

    So, the way I see it the additional rad mod to CoolIt cooler might help at load temps but it doesn't do much at idle temps. Anyway all this depend on the coolant temps when it exists the block.

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    Bully, why did you run the cables in front of the res ? is there any way to run them under the tube ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bullydog View Post
    Jay...would like to see a work log from your boreas built ya ?
    http://forums.pureoverclock.com/members/2096-albums24.html

    theres not much of a work log i just hooked it up and plugged it in. thats after going through two freezones. here are some pic 4 u.

    btw.... being new to this watercooling thing please tell me if this right just so i dont bung it up.
    im going to carefully unhook the boreas tubes from the waterblock
    after spilling coolant all over and trying to drain it all out im going to connect the new Heatkiller with the compression fittings
    then im going to take it to Coolit and get them to fill it up and get the bubbles out with their coolant
    is this right?
    i think ill stick with their 1/4 in tubing so as not to change the flow for their loop
    and mine as well keep their tubing since its there
    thanks guys
    Last edited by jayfunk; 01-09-2009 at 10:03.

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    Jay;
    I forgot to comment on the res and tubes, if you increase the coolant volume too much this might effect the chilling temps. Because if the volume too hight then it will take longer for the TECs to chill it down to the target temp.

    Reservoir is not really important with the Boreas setup, however it's easy to do the filling. I would go with T-LINE setup instead. Since you are inexperience with this and CoolIt willing to customize it for you then why not let them do it.

    Little tips for you; try to use neporene tubing because it has better thermal insulation then the vinyl one. Speaking of insullation, you can insulate the FHC (TEC blue units) and the tubing this will help the coolant stay cold longer. You might gain 1-2°C

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