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Thread: Thermoelectric Cooling - ICEKOOL - 8th April

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    Default Thermoelectric Cooling - ICEKOOL - 8th April

    This is my second attempt to work with thermoelectric cooling.
    The first experiment was a reservoir TEC water chilled, I fail miserably due to the lack of fund available and the inexperience with Peltier.

    I spent countless time on the research about thermoelectric cooling and I'm going to give it another shot.
    This time around I will be using Peltier as direct die cooling approach to chill the processor.

    Hopefully I will have more success this time around.





    Objective:
    To keep 4200Mhz overclocked Core i7 920 chilling at sub-ambient or at least below 40c (load) with minimal cost as possible.


    Estimate Cost
    Value in $USD or otherwise indicated.

    Peltier
    Module#: 12726
    Pmax: 400W
    Qmax: 245W
    Umax: 15.4v
    Imax: 26A
    DTmax: 68C
    Size: 50mm x 50mm x 3.6mm
    Cost: $30.00 shipping included

    Cold Plate
    Dimension: 50mm x 50mm x 5mm (3/16)
    Cost: $8.00 shipping included

    Insulation Material
    Conformal spray
    Neoprene close cells sheet
    Die-Electric grease
    other accessories
    Cost: $30.00

    Radiator
    Swiftech MCR320
    Cost: $65.00 shipping included

    Fitting
    Bitspower 45 degree compression
    Cost: $20

    Total cost: $145 approximate


    PROJECT SCHEDULE
    Phase I: Addition radiator installation to existing setup for extra cooling capacity.
    Phase II: Motherboard condensation preparation
    Phase III: Water block & Peltier Installation
    Phase IV: Result


    Note: Due to personal engagement commitment at the moment, this project is going to take
    a little bit longer than I was anticipated. I'll try to update it often as I have a chance. So be patient.

  2. #2
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    Default Current Tempeartures

    Current Watercooling System:
    CPU Block: Apogee GTZ
    PUMP: MCP655
    RESERVOIR: XSPC 5.25 Bay
    FAN: 3 S-Flex 120x25, 1200RPM, 3 CoolerMaster @1600RPM, Push/Pull configure
    FAN SHROUD: Koolance triple
    TUBING: 6, 3/8ID Vinyl
    FITTING: Bitspower compression
    FLOW RATE: 1.4G/h (est)
    COOLANT: Feser One
    COOLING CAPACITY: 450w and whooping up to 1000w max after addition rad installed

    Current Temperatures with power saving and speed stepping enables




    Note: The TDP jumped up to 147w at stress load, according to Cooltest; he said the sensor is not accurate.
    However, I did use SiSoft Sandra for thermal power benching, the software couldn't report the result because the max software can read is 146w. So the TDP tipped the scale. It is possible your i7 will run at 147+W. Yuppy it's darn pretty hot proc.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Deton View Post
    Hopefully I will have more excess this time around.
    Here is to your excess of success D

    We will all be looking forward to this one for sure!

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    Default

    LOL....bad typo:$

    Rosco, good catch...thanks!

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    Default PHASE I - Radiator Installation

    Day one - 9th, April

    Issue: I want to install the second radiator internal but the Silverstone TJ09 case wont fit without any modification.
    My plan is doing stack configuration at the top of the case with Koolance rad shroud (see pic). The problem Im facing
    is no room for the second radiator. Theres only one inch of clearance before the rad fans touches the motherboard.
    I need at least two more inches of clearance from the mobo to the blue fans so I have room to install the second rad.



    arrhhhhh.... I need to come up a solution, gonna to do some thinking now. "I'll be back".:cool:

  6. The following user thanks Deton For this above post:

    aryan51 (19-12-2010)

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    Default

    Will you get stackable rads or just plain ones??

    " There are some things Man should not know, for rest is Google"
    " Never argue with an idiot, he'll drag you to his level and beat you with experience"




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    Default

    One idea that I saw somewhere for my TJ-10 was to remove the HDD cages, and install the hard drives in your 5.25" bays. Then you have just enough room to fit a sandwiched (I believe) dual fan radiator in the new opening. At max, you would only be able to use 6 fans, and I don't know if the grills on the side panels would allow you to have enough room to get proper air flow.
    New System Specs Listed




    This is my invitation link for minus.com: http://min.us/rDfDx3F.
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    Default

    Geralt; no it won't be Swiftech stackable one, I just use the regular one because the stackable one is not available at my local supplier and it cost way more. I picked up the second MCR320 for $60CND, I think the stackable one close to $100CND. This will defeat my goal and budget though, therefore I know I will have some more issues to deal with the rads when I try to stack them. As we learned from Hesmelaugh experiment.

    Shatered; I don't think the TJ09 or TJ10 will fit a triple rad there, even you remove the HDD craddles. It might fits the dual one. In my case there is no way to considering to install the rads there because my PSU is about 7" long.

    Update: I came up an idea about the rad shroud. I'll putt around when get home from work today and I may have some more time the long weekend (Easter) weekend.

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    Default

    Day One Con't
    Ok I will be using these MDF boards to make an extended shroud adapter. Now I have to design the aesthetic of this adapter not to look so gheto.


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    Default

    I LOVED the typo, it was like unintended poetry considering the topic So, how will you plumb the stacked radiators if not the stackable variety? Fan in the middle gives the separation for 90 degree?

    MDF? Thats not like you. Sand and polish some nice burled walnut or oak for the extender...like detail work in some high end sports cars I know Would that small amount be too expensive? Lot of work though.

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    Yeah I was thinking the same to extend the roof shroud but then what route you will make for the tubes??? through backplate somwhere?? something like bully did?? But as far as i remember you dont like to have tubes routed outside as it hurts your aestethics...
    Or will you drill through the top of the case?? But if you will be drilling thourgh you would have to shift one of the rads slightly which will beat the purpose of stacking them.....

    " There are some things Man should not know, for rest is Google"
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  13. #12
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    Default

    The reason I'm using MDF because it's easy to work with and I want a smooth look after I painted it black to match with the case/shroud. If I use the other type of hardwood the gains will show. Plus you won't see the board facing just it's edges only.

    I also thinking to use stick on fibre carbon sheet wrap around it? That is why MDF boards was my first pick.
    BTW, these MDF boards are left over from cabintry project I did awhile back. I'm trying to use all the resources laying around the house first before I buy a special product for this project though.


    Now for the stacking the rads and since I'm not using Swiftech new stackable rads then I will have some issues to deal with. Also I don't want to use four 90 degree elbows run the tubing.
    I don't want to connect them like Hesmelaugh did http://forums.pureoverclock.com/showthread.php?t=5187

    Speaking of tubing, yes I don't really like the tubes to run external or I just install the second rad at the back of the case and call it the day. No no I want to look neat and less cluster and now I have to go all the trouble of modding.

    I was working on the shroud adapter last night but didn't have a chance to finish it. One more board need to be cut, hopefully I can get the cutting done, take some pic to show you what I'm getting at.

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    Default Phase I - Radiator Installation

    Day Two - 10th April
    This is what I came up with rad shroud extend adapter.


    this extend shroud adapter will housing 3 fans, a rad


    the second rad will be sandwiched right below the first rad and connected by 3 more fans.
    This config will have 6 fans total, pull/push.


    Now it need couple coats of primer and give it a black paint to match the Koolance shroud.

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    WOW D! You have some jgsaw skills!!! looks really, really nice!

    But still how are you going to route the tubes??

    " There are some things Man should not know, for rest is Google"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post
    WOW D! You have some jgsaw skills!!! looks really, really nice!

    But still how are you going to route the tubes??
    that's the problem I'm facing right now.

    The original plan was using two MCR320 regular to sandwiched them with the port facing each other, and use fan shrouds on one rad and fans on the second one to create 50mm spacing, big enough to use 45 or 90 degree elbow fittings. Unfortunately it didn't work out, 50mm still not big enough space.

    Also I have to use 6 fans (push/pull) config due to the Koolane fan shroud and the spacing is very tight when you have two rad siting on top each.

    It's look like I have to purchase the stackable rad instead of the regular one, but it defeats the purpose of low budget project.

    Due to that problem, I'm changing plan. I'm going to use a MCR320 + MCR220 (already have one laying around) instead. This config will give me some room to plumb the two rad. Now instead of 900 - 1000w heat dissipating capability but only around 800w, still plenty to handle the heat from CPU & TEC though.

    Well, I'm working on plan "B" at the moment, hopefully have to pics to post shortly.

  17. #16
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    Day Three - 11th April
    The rad shroud extender is primed and painted, waiting to be dried.

    Here is what I came up with MCR320 and MCR220, instead of using two MCR320.
    This will solve the tubing connectiong problem. MCR220 is the old 3/8" NPT fitting so I have to used a special fitting adapters (3/8" to 1/4" bushing not shown), 90 elbow.

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